The Common Causes Of Shingle Blow-Offs

Published Oct 16, 20
5 min read

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When roofing shingles are not set up appropriately, you may discover that they raise up, leakage, or perhaps fall off during the next windstorm. This type of error can cost you more money in the long-run. There are also particular safety issues to be mindful of when carrying out Do It Yourself roof repair work.

A roofing repair work can become much more hazardous if you attempt to perform a repair when it is windy, rainy, or when the roof is slick with wet leaves or debris. Hauling heavy shingles and nails up a ladder can also posture a safety threat. Other security issues originate from the usage of unknown products or devices.

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When you choose to go the Do It Yourself path with your roofing system repair, you not only risk losing money but also your valuable energy and time. Changing shingles on your roof is effort that can take hours and even days, depending on the degree of the damage. As the products are large, heavy, and challenging to maneuver, replacing roof shingles can be difficult on the body.

It can be frustrating to find loose shingles thrown about your lawn after a storm. However, this is a typical problem that has a relatively simple fix. If your roof is in otherwise excellent condition, just the harmed area itself can be replaced to avoid water from leaking under the adjacent shingles.

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For additional information on how to fix roofing system shingles blown off by a storm or to set up a roof evaluation, call our expert roofing repair contractors at Beyond Exteriors today. installing shingles.

There are 2 approaches by which shingles are connected to a roofing system: roof nails or adhesive strips. Generally roofing nails have short shanks, sharp points, and wide, flat heads that allow them to penetrate the shingle without tearing it. Some shingles are made with adhesive strips connected to the bottom which, when attached, develops a strong, water resistant seal to the shingle beneath it.

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It's excellent that the roof is not leaking (you didn't point out that) however incorrect setup will develop leakages in the future. So, confirming a couple of key items and after that officially notifying your builder (by licensed, return invoice mail) of inaccurate installation will secure your rights. I 'd check the following: Number of nails in each shingle: Each roof producer needs a specific variety of nails into each shingle, generally 4 minimum.

( Where I live, 65 miles per hour winds would require 5 nails per shingle.) You'll find this info on each wrapper around each package of shingles. If no wrapper is around, you can discover it on the manufacturer's site. If you don't know the name of the producer, call the contractor. Nail Placement: I see this wrong on a lot of tasks.

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Nails need to be above the top of the cut out in the 3-tab shingle, but about 1" below the mastic strip. Most roofing contractors desire to nail "in" the mastic strip. This is bad for two factors: a) it misses the shingle directly below, so there are only 4 nails holding the shingle on the roofing rather of 8 nails, and b) it develops a little dip in the shingle because it causes the shingle to bend down over the leading edge of the lower shingle.

Hand tabbing is placing a quarter size dab of roof mastic "by hand" under each shingle. Nevertheless, many roof makers need hand tabbing "if the shingles have actually not self-sealed in an enough time." This is a bit approximate, but "enough time" suggests "within the guarantee period." (You can get that validated by the roof producer.) So, the method to check this is to go up on the roofing and attempt to lift a shingle tab (bend a shingle tab up) (architectural roof shingles).

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The roofer will tell you the shingles will "self tab" down. That implies they prepare for the sun heating the shingle up till it sticks to the mastic strip under each tab. The problem is that it may not get warm enough in your location or the nails are not set flush and the nails are holding the shingles up above the mastic strip.

A lot of roofing contractors will stretch that to 6" or 6. 1/2". That gives the chance for the wind to raise more of the shingle and produces incorrect nailing, (missing the top of the lower shingle, and so on) Too except nails: Nails should entirely penetrate the plywood. Can you see the nails from inside the attic? Roofing system sheathing is too thin: 1/2" plywood or 5/8" particle board minimum, I think.

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